Green Stuff - Wie verarbeiten?

so wie ich das verstanden hab, willst du damit ganze modelle modelliern? oder wie?
ich kann dir aber leider keine tipps dazu geben! ich such ma im WWW wennn ich was finde post ich dir das ma!

ich hoff du kannst damit was anfagen! dürfte was zu deinem problem drinsteh! sorry für die länge, ich weis die hälfte brauch man nit aber...

Conversion Tutorial: Introduction Green Stuff
Submitted by: Cento

Comment: The following is an article a good friend of ours has written. He's been kind enough to allow us to submit it to our site prior to posting it up on his own. For more painting tips and excellent paint jobs, take a look at Cento Industries.

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What is Green Stuff?

Green Stuff is the standard modelling compound for the gaming miniature industry. Most figures are actually sculpted in Green Stuff before they are cast for mass production. Green Stuff is the common name for Polymeric's Kneadatite (Blue/Yellow) Sculptors Epoxy Putty. It is the same stuff that GW used to repackage (and sell for a markup) in blister packs. Currently, Games Workshop US sells a blue/white epoxy putty instead, but it is quite similar to Green Stuff, and it is in fact made by the same company as Green Stuff (see below for more information on White Stuff).

Green Stuff can be a very challenging medium to work in. Former GW sculptor Chris Fitzpatrick reportedly once compared it to trying to sculpt in chewing gum. This is by no means an exhaustive document on how to sculpt in Green Stuff, but is instead intended as useful introduction for those looking to go to the next step in figure conversions.

Care and Preparation of Green Stuff

Fresh Green Stuff is important. If Green Stuff gets too old, it will become crumbly or not mix smoothly, making it very difficult to work with. If you buy it from any sculpting supply dealer, they will know this and are pretty good about keeping their stock fresh. You can help maintain the freshness of your Green Stuff by keeping it in a cold place, preferably the freezer.

To mix up some Green Stuff, use a hobby knife to cut off the amount you need to work with (1). Again using the hobby knife, remove the center section of the putty ribbon where the blue and yellow meet, since the curing process will have already started here, and the cured bits will not mix in smoothly (2). Finally take the two pieces and thoroughly knead them together until the Green Stuff is a smooth, uniform shade of green (3).

By varying the mixture ratio of blue to yellow, you can affect the working properties of the Green Stuff. Using more blue (the hardener) in the mixture, the Green Stuff will cure faster and slightly harder. More yellow (filler) in the mixture creates a softer blend that will take detail better and harden slower. Many sculptors will use a blue heavy mixture to bulk up the figure and more of a yellow ratio for surface detail. Remember that the yellow strip is the sticker half, and that will also affect the final working properties of your mixture. Finally, Green Stuff is extremely soft right after it is mixed, and many people find it too difficult to use while it is so soft, so you may want to let your mixed Green Stuff sit for 15 minutes or so before trying to sculpt with it. Experiment a little and see what works best for you.

If you have really sensitive skin (as I do), mixing the Green Stuff can cause some discomfort. If you notice this, you should try wearing rubber or latex gloves while mixing the Green Stuff. The mixing process is when your skin gets the most exposure to the Green Stuff, so once it is mixed, you should be able to work with your bare hands without any extra discomfort.

Working with Green Stuff

The most important thing when working with Green Stuff is lubrication. Keep your tools (and finger tips) lubricated to prevent the Green stuff from sticking all over them. The conventional wisdom suggests water, but water is problematic since it needs to be constantly reapplied and the water droplets tends to obscure details. Instead, I recommend Vaseline (or some other petroleum jelly). I small amount applied to your tools makes working with Green Stuff much easier. The only drawback to Vaseline is that you must thoroughly wash what you have worked on with soap and water before you can apply any more Green Stuff (or paint) to the figure. Other professional sculptors use all sorts of other lubricants, including olive oil, saliva, ear wax, and oil from their foreheads (eew!).

Work with small amounts of Green Stuff at a time, and build up what you are working on. To sculpt a large area, bulk it up first with Green Stuff into the rough shape of what you want. Fine surface detail is not important yet. Any large or freestanding sections (such as limbs or weapons) should be supported by a wire armature. When applying surface details, again add a little bit at a time. Since Green Stuff is so soft and flexible, try to push putty into the shape you want rather than carve it with cutting motions. Cutting motions tend to deform the putty when it is soft rather than cutting cleanly. Once it is cured, Green Stuff cuts easily, but while you CAN sand and carve it after curing, the "give" it has makes this difficult and not all that effective. Once you have an area you are happy with, set it aside and let it cure. Everyone who has used Green Stuff has at some point accidentally pressed a finger print into an area that they had already finished sculpting.

The normal working time for Green Stuff is 90 minutes after it has been mixed, though this will be affected by the temperature of your work area. If you want to accelerate the cure time, placing the figure in a warm area will help. The easiest way is to place it under a desk lamp. Some sculptors make little Green Stuff ovens using an old coffee can and desk lamp. If you have used any plastic bits in your figure, be warned that too high of a temperature, even from a desk lamp, will melt or warp your plastic bits and ruin your work (I've done it). Conversely, if you wish to slow down the sure time of some Green Stuff that you have already mixed up, you can place it in the refrigerator or freezer to delay it hardening. When you pull it out, work it in your hands to soften it up again. In any case, do not expect full cure strength for at least 24 hours after mixing the Green Stuff.

Hybrid Putty Mixtures

While Green Stuff is a flexible putty, and retains a lot of "give" even when hardened, these properties can be modified by blending different types of putty together. For example, many sculptors will use a blend of Green Stuff and White Stuff or Green Stuff and Brown Stuff. The most famous blend is actually Green Stuff and Milliput (for more information on Milliput, refer to "Other Modelling Materials" below).

To mix up the hybrid, first mix some of each putty type separately then mix the two putties together (as shown above). The normal ratio is a 50/50 blend, but you can experiment to find a mixture that works better for you. The resulting blend has some of the resilience of Green Stuff, but is much harder and can be filed and carved more easily. This blend is most often used for more hard edged features, such as machinery or weapons.

Tools

Tools are very much a matter of personal preferences and style. Some sculptors use nothing more then toothpicks, sewing needles, or an old Xacto knife. Others use a staggering array of implements, even going so far as making their own custom specialized tools. I tend to use the following:

hobby knife

sculpting tools

dental probes

burnishers

files

All of these should be available at larger hobby stores or ordered online (see Suppliers below). To find out more about these tools, please refer to my Modelling Tools page.

And last, but most certainly not least, have patience. Green Stuff is a difficult medium to work with, and it will not be rushed. There is no replacement for experience and experimentation.